India: getting in, and getting there

An e-Visa in four days, an open border with Nepal, and distances that decide the itinerary.

India in one screen

Capital
New Delhi
Currency
Indian rupee (INR)
Languages
Hindi, English and twenty-one other scheduled languages
Time zone
UTC+5:30, fifteen minutes behind Nepal
Dialling code
+91
Power
230V, type C, D and M sockets
Main airports
Delhi (DEL), Mumbai (BOM), Kolkata (CCU), Varanasi (VNS)

Our trips in India

The visa, and what it costs

An e-Visa applied for online, approved by email in two to five days, and stamped into your passport on arrival. It is genuinely straightforward and it is also strictly enforced: the e-Visa is tied to a list of approved airports and land crossings, and arriving anywhere else with one does not work.

  • 30-day e-Tourist, April to June arrival
    Cost
    USD 10
    Notes
    The low-season rate. It is the cheapest way into India and almost nobody knows it exists.
  • 30-day e-Tourist, July to March arrival
    Cost
    USD 25
    Notes
  • 1-year e-Tourist, multiple entry
    Cost
    USD 40
    Notes
    Reduced from USD 80. Maximum 180 days in the year.
  • 5-year e-Tourist, multiple entry
    Cost
    USD 80
    Notes
    Maximum 180 days a year. Some nationalities now pay considerably more; check your own before assuming.
  • Bank charge
    Cost
    About 2.5 to 3% on top
    Notes
    Added at the payment page and not refundable if the application fails.
  • Most Western passports
    What applies
    e-Visa online, at the fees above. Apply at least four days before you fly and up to 120 days ahead.
  • Nepali and Bhutanese nationals
    What applies
    No visa required for entry by land or air, under longstanding bilateral arrangements.
  • Pakistani nationals and people of Pakistani origin
    What applies
    Not eligible for the e-Visa at all. A regular visa from an Indian mission is the only route.
  • Anyone who has held an Indian passport
    What applies
    Renouncing Indian citizenship requires a surrender certificate before a visa is issued. This catches out people of Indian origin every year and it cannot be fixed at the airport.
  • Diplomatic and official passports
    What applies
    Not eligible for the e-Visa. A regular visa from an Indian mission.

How to actually get it

Apply on the government site, not a lookalike

indianvisaonline.gov.in is the only official portal. There is an entire industry of agency sites that charge three or four times the fee to fill in the same form, and they rank well in search. If a site is asking USD 120 for a 30-day tourist visa, you are on one of them.

The photograph is what fails

A plain white background, square crop, face filling most of the frame, no glasses. More e-Visa applications are rejected on the photograph than on anything else. Take it against a white wall on a phone rather than scanning a passport picture.

Print the approval

You receive an Electronic Travel Authorisation by email. Print it. Airlines at check-in ask for it on paper more often than they should, and the immigration counter at Delhi stamps against it.

Entry point matters

The e-Visa is valid at 36 airports, 38 seaports and 12 land crossings, and the land list includes the Nepal border posts at Raxaul and Sunauli. Arriving overland anywhere not on the list with an e-Visa means being turned back.

What catches people out

  • The e-Visa is not extendable and not convertible once you are in the country.
  • The 1-year and 5-year e-Tourist visas cap you at 180 days in any twelve-month period, not 180 consecutive days.
  • Restricted and protected area permits still apply on top of a visa for parts of Sikkim, Arunachal Pradesh, Ladakh's border areas, Lakshadweep and the Andamans.
  • A same-day connection through Delhi on separate tickets means clearing immigration with the visa you hold. There is no airside transit for most nationalities.
  • Fees are nationality-specific and change without notice. The figures here were checked in February 2026 and are for common Western passports.

Flying there

Non-stop routes only. Anything with a connection depends on the day and is better answered by a search than by a table.

  • London
    Airlines
    British Airways, Virgin Atlantic, Air India
    In the air
    8h 30m
    Notes
    Non-stop to Delhi
  • New York
    Airlines
    Air India, United
    In the air
    14h 30m
    Notes
    Non-stop to Delhi
  • Frankfurt
    Airlines
    Lufthansa, Air India
    In the air
    7h 45m
    Notes
  • Dubai
    Airlines
    Emirates, IndiGo, Air India Express
    In the air
    3h 30m
    Notes
    The densest short-haul link into India
  • Singapore
    Airlines
    Singapore Airlines, IndiGo, Air India
    In the air
    5h 30m
    Notes
  • Kathmandu
    Airlines
    Nepal Airlines, IndiGo, Air India
    In the air
    1h 45m
    Notes
    To Delhi. Several a day
  • Paro
    Airlines
    Drukair, Bhutan Airlines
    In the air
    1h 45m
    Notes
    To Delhi, around five a week
  • Delhi to Varanasi
    Airlines
    IndiGo, Air India, Akasa
    In the air
    1h 25m
    Notes
    The alternative to an overnight train
  • Delhi to Leh
    Airlines
    IndiGo, Air India, SpiceJet
    In the air
    1h 20m
    Notes
    Morning only. Leh is at 3,500 m and needs two days of doing nothing
  • Delhi to Bagdogra
    Airlines
    IndiGo, Air India
    In the air
    2h
    Notes
    For Darjeeling, Sikkim and the land route into Bhutan
  • Delhi to Jaipur
    Airlines
    IndiGo, Air India
    In the air
    1h
    Notes
    Usually driven in five hours instead, because the road is the point

Joining it onto the country next door

Half the trips in this catalogue cross a border. These are the links they are built on, and the lead times they impose.

  • Nepal
    How
    Fly Delhi, Varanasi or Kolkata to Kathmandu, or cross by land at Sunauli, Raxaul or Kakarbhitta
    How long
    1h 20m to 1h 45m flying, a full day by road
    Notes
  • Bhutan
    How
    Fly Delhi, Kolkata or Bagdogra to Paro, or drive in at Phuentsholing
    How long
    1h to 1h 45m flying
    Notes
    Indian nationals need a permit rather than a visa, issued on arrival
  • Tibet
    How
    Not directly. Via Kathmandu, or via mainland China
    How long
    Two flights
    Notes
    There is no tourist land crossing from India into Tibet

When to come

  • October to March
    What it is like
    The season for the north: Delhi, Rajasthan, Agra and Varanasi are clear and cool. December and January are genuinely cold and foggy in the morning, which delays flights and trains.
    Best
  • March
    What it is like
    Holi, and the reason to build a trip around a single date. Warm rather than hot, and the last comfortable month in Rajasthan.
    Best
  • April to June
    What it is like
    The plains reach 45°C. It is also when the 30-day e-Visa costs USD 10 and when the Himalayan north, Ladakh and Sikkim, is at its best.
    Hard
  • July to September
    What it is like
    Monsoon. Kerala and the Western Ghats are wonderful in it; the Golden Triangle is humid and the Himalaya is landsliding.
    Hard

Money on the ground

  • Cards
    Widely accepted in cities and at anything aimed at tourists. Cash for markets, autorickshaws and small towns.
  • ATMs
    Everywhere. Withdrawal limits are low, often INR 10,000 a time, so expect several visits.
  • UPI
    The country runs on it and it is now open to foreign visitors with an Indian SIM. Worth setting up if you are staying more than a fortnight.
  • Currency export
    Taking Indian rupees out of the country is restricted, and INR 500 notes are not legal tender in Nepal. Spend down before you cross.
  • Tipping
    Ten per cent in restaurants where service is not added. INR 500 to 1,000 a day for a driver on a private tour.

Arriving

Delhi is the gateway for everything in this catalogue

Indira Gandhi International has the widest choice of long-haul routes in South Asia and it is ninety minutes from Kathmandu, four hours from the Taj Mahal and an easy connection to Varanasi. Every India and Nepal itinerary we run starts or ends there for those reasons and not for any other.

Flying between India and Nepal

Delhi to Kathmandu is one hour forty-five minutes on Nepal Airlines, IndiGo or Air India, several times a day. Varanasi to Kathmandu is a shorter hop and is the one that makes a Ganges-then-Himalaya itinerary work without doubling back. Kolkata to Kathmandu is the third option and the least frequent.

Crossing by land

Sunauli, near Bhairahawa, is the crossing for Varanasi and Lucknow. Raxaul, near Birgunj, is the one for Patna and Bodhgaya. Kakarbhitta in the east serves Darjeeling and Siliguri. All three are open daily, all three issue Nepali visas on arrival, and all three take considerably longer than the map suggests. Budget a full day and do not book anything for the evening.

Health and safety

  • No vaccination is required unless you are arriving from a yellow fever country, in which case the certificate is checked and enforced.
  • Typhoid, hepatitis A and tetanus are the standard travel-clinic recommendations. Rabies is worth discussing if you are going rural.
  • Drink sealed or filtered water and treat street food by how busy the stall is rather than how clean it looks. Somewhere with a queue turns its stock over.
  • Delhi's air quality between late October and January is genuinely poor and is a real consideration for asthma and other respiratory conditions. An FFP2 mask is not paranoid there.
  • Private hospitals in Delhi, Mumbai and Chennai are excellent and are where insurance will send you. Keep the policy number somewhere that is not only on your phone.

Still not sure the paperwork works?

Tell us your passport and your dates and we will tell you plainly whether the trip is possible, before you have paid anything.

Ask us