Four different hills on the rim of the Kathmandu valley, walked one a day from a hotel you do not have to pack up, with a night at a monastery at the end.
Five days of walking on the hills that ring the Kathmandu valley, done from a hotel in the city rather than from a trail. Four summits, two of them near 2,750 m, a night in a working monastery, and no permits, porters or domestic flights. It is the most walking you can do in Nepal without committing to a trek.
Most visitors see the valley floor and assume the hills around it are suburbs. They are not. Shivapuri is a national park with leopard in it. Phulchowki holds three hundred bird species and the best broadleaf forest within fifty miles of the city. From either summit, on a winter morning, you can see two hundred kilometres of the Himalaya.
Because four days of out and back walking wants a destination at the end of it. The Dhulikhel to Namobuddha walk goes somewhere rather than round, and Namobuddha itself is one of the three great Buddhist sites of Nepal, sitting on a hill among fields with very few visitors in it. The guesthouse is plain and the evening prayers are the thing people remember.
Walkers with a week, people whose Nepal trip has a gap in it, families with teenagers, and anybody who wants hill days without living out of a duffel. It also works as the week before a Himalayan trek, because four days climbing to 2,700 m is real preparation rather than sightseeing.
Everything within an hour of Kathmandu, walked from a hotel you do not have to leave until the last night.
| Day | Route | Walking | Altitude |
|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Arrive Kathmandu | - | 1,400 m (4,590 ft) |
| Day 2 | Budhanilkantha to Shivapuri and back | 6 to 7, 16 km | 2,732 m (8,960 ft) |
| Day 3 | Godavari to Phulchowki and back | 6 to 7, 18 km | 2,762 m (9,060 ft) |
| Day 4 | Pharping to Champadevi to Kirtipur | 5 to 6, 14 km | 2,285 m (7,500 ft) |
| Day 5 | Dhulikhel to Namobuddha | 4, 10 km | 1,750 m (5,740 ft) |
| Day 6 | Namobuddha to Panauti, and out | 2 to 3, 8 km | 1,400 m (4,590 ft) |
The blue line is where you sleep. The gold pins are the high point each day actually reached, which on the acclimatisation days is a long way above the bed you come back down to.
Day by day, with where you sleep and how far you walk.
We meet you at the airport and take you to your hotel. The afternoon is yours. In the evening we go through the four hills, look at the weather for the week, and decide which day goes where, because the clearest morning should be spent on the highest hill rather than wasted.
Half an hour north to the Shivapuri Nagarjun park gate at Budhanilkantha, and then a steady climb through oak and rhododendron. Nagi Gompa, a Tibetan nunnery on a shoulder at 2,300 m, is an hour and a half up and a good place to stop. The summit at 2,732 m is two hours beyond it, with the Ganesh Himal and Langtang laid out to the north. Down the same way, and back at the hotel for tea.
Forty minutes south east to Godavari and the botanical garden, then four hours up through the best forest within reach of the city: subtropical at the bottom, oak and laurel in the middle, and moss and rhododendron near the top. Phulchowki at 2,762 m has a shrine, an army post and, on a clear day, Everest to the east. A gentler afternoon on the way down.
South to Pharping, where the Asura cave and the Tibetan monasteries above it are worth an hour before you start walking. Then up the pine ridge to Champadevi at 2,285 m, which has a stupa, prayer flags and the whole valley below it. The descent runs north along the ridge and down into Kirtipur, a Newar hill town that most visitors never reach and that is better for it.
An hour east to Dhulikhel, an old trading town on the road to Tibet with a Himalayan view from its ridge. The walk to Namobuddha is four hours through terraced farmland and Tamang villages, and it ends at the stupa where, the story says, a prince gave his body to a starving tigress. We sleep at the monastery guesthouse, which is simple, and go to the evening prayers.
Morning prayers at six if you want them, then two hours down through the fields to Panauti, a Newar town at the meeting of two rivers with a thirteenth century temple and almost no visitors. The vehicle takes you from there to the airport or back to your hotel, an hour away.
One bag stays in the room
The whole point of this trip is that you unpack once. Bring a daypack for the hills and a small overnight bag for the single night at Namobuddha, and everything else stays in the Kathmandu hotel room, which we hold for you across the two nights you are away from it.
The flights and the long drives this itinerary is built around, and what happens when one of them does not go.
Tribhuvan International, via Delhi, Doha, Dubai, Istanbul, Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur or Singapore. There is no direct flight from Europe or North America. Day 1 asks nothing of you, so a late arrival is fine.
Fill the form at the kiosk, pay $30 cash for 15 days at the bank counter, then join immigration. Clean dollar notes. Indian nationals need none.
Which is the quiet advantage of this trip. Nothing on it can be cancelled by weather at Lukla or wind at Jomsom, nothing has to be rebooked, and there is no day held back to absorb a delay. Everything is within an hour's drive of your hotel.
Day 6 finishes at Panauti in the late morning and the vehicle takes you to the airport, an hour away, or back to the hotel. If your flight is in the evening we will hold a day room for you.
A Kathmandu hotel for four nights and a monastery guesthouse for one, which is the whole logistical argument for this trip.
| Where | Nights | Type | Room | Bathroom |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kathmandu | 4 | Three star hotel, in or near Thamel | Twin or double, the same room throughout | Private, hot water |
| Namobuddha | 1 | Monastery guesthouse | Twin, plain and quiet | Private, hot water, and no heating |
| Meal | Time | Usually |
|---|---|---|
| Breakfast | 6:30–7:30 | At the hotel, earlier than most guests, so that you are at the trailhead before the day warms up |
| Packed lunch | 12:00–13:30 | Made by the hotel: sandwiches, boiled eggs, fruit, a bar and juice. Eaten at the top, usually on a rock |
| Dinner | 19:00 | Yours to choose in Kathmandu, and it would be a waste to eat in the hotel. Included and vegetarian at Namobuddha |
| Tea | 16:00 | At a teahouse near the trailhead on the way back, which the driver will already have found |
| Diet | On this route |
|---|---|
| Vegetarian | Easy, and Namobuddha is entirely vegetarian anyway. The hotel packs a vegetarian lunch without being asked twice. |
| Vegan | Straightforward in Kathmandu. Tell us at booking so the packed lunches are built for it rather than assembled around it. |
| Gluten free | Manageable. The packed lunch becomes rice, eggs and fruit rather than sandwiches, which needs a day's notice. |
| Nut allergy | Tell us at booking. The hotel kitchen will keep nuts out of the packed lunches and the guide will say it at the monastery. |
| Halal | Available in Kathmandu. The monastery meals are vegetarian, which solves it for the one night away. |
Out at seven, up a hill, a packed lunch at the top, down by four, and dinner wherever you feel like in Kathmandu.
Two genuine hill days, one moderate one and two easy ones. Shivapuri and Phulchowki each climb about 1,300 m and take six or seven hours out and back, which is a real day's walking. Everything else is gentler, and any day can be swapped or skipped without upsetting the rest.
Written for somebody who walks a bit and does not train. If you already run or cycle regularly, start at the eight-week block. Nothing here needs a gym.
Two months before
Get to six hours
Two of these days climb 1,200 m or more and take six or seven hours. If your regular walk is two hours on the flat, build up. One long hilly walk a week for eight weeks is enough.
One month before
Descend
Shivapuri and Phulchowki are out and back, so you come down everything you went up. That is what finds knees. Walk downhill deliberately, and bring poles, which we will lend you if you would rather not fly with them.
A week before
Boots and socks
These are forest tracks with roots, loose stone and, after rain, mud. Trainers will do on the Namobuddha walk and not on the other three. Bring boots you have already worn a lot.
The figures are for the valley floor. Take eight degrees off for a Phulchowki or Shivapuri summit and add a wind.
| Month | Day in the valley | Night in the valley | Day at the summits | What it is like | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| January | +18°C | +2°C | +8°C | Best | Cold bright mornings, the clearest views of the year, and Everest visible from Phulchowki on the sharpest days. Frost at the summits. |
| February | +20°C | +4°C | +10°C | Best | The same clarity with easier mornings. Quiet on the hills and the forest is beginning to wake up. |
| March | +25°C | +8°C | +15°C | Best | Rhododendron on Phulchowki and Shivapuri, the best birding of the year, and warm walking. Our favourite month for this trip. |
| April | +28°C | +12°C | +18°C | Good | Warm, sometimes too warm on the climbs, and hazy, so the Himalayan view becomes a lottery. The forest is still excellent. |
| May | +30°C | +16°C | +20°C | Hard | Hot on the lower slopes with pre monsoon storms in the afternoon. Start very early or choose a different month. |
| June | +30°C | +19°C | +21°C | Hard | The monsoon arrives. The forest hills grow leeches and the view goes. We would rather you came in October. |
| July | +29°C | +20°C | +21°C | We do not run it | The wettest month, and the forest trails become genuinely unpleasant. We do not run it. |
| August | +29°C | +20°C | +21°C | We do not run it | The same. Green, cheap and not worth it for a walking trip. |
| September | +28°C | +18°C | +20°C | Good | The monsoon clears through the month and the last ten days are often the cleanest air of the year. |
| October | +26°C | +13°C | +17°C | Best | The best month overall. Washed air, warm days, dry trails and the range out from both northern hills. |
| November | +23°C | +7°C | +13°C | Best | Clear, cool and still, with short days and empty trails. Excellent walking. |
| December | +19°C | +3°C | +9°C | Best | Cold and very clear, with valley fog until about ten that you climb straight out of, which is a remarkable thing to do before breakfast. |
Averages for the valley floor at 1,400 m, with the summit figure alongside. Phulchowki and Shivapuri run about eight degrees colder than Kathmandu, and windier.
One licensed hiking guide on all five days, who knows which of the many forks on Shivapuri leads where, and one driver who meets you at the end of the walk rather than the beginning of it when the route goes over the hill.
Two reasons and both are practical. The forest tracks on Shivapuri and Phulchowki branch constantly and are poorly signed, and the quieter trails on the rim have had occasional robberies over the years. A local guide answers both, and knows where the good tea is.
Phulchowki and Shivapuri are two of the best birding forests in central Nepal. We can put a specialist with you instead for $25 a day, and the walking becomes slower, quieter and a completely different trip.
Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park protects the catchment that supplies a good deal of Kathmandu's water as well as the forest you walk through. The NPR 1,000 gate fee is one of the more directly useful things a visitor pays for in this country.
Your packed lunch leaves the hotel in a box and comes back in the same box. There are no bins on these hills and what gets left on Shivapuri stays on Shivapuri, which anybody who has walked the lower track on a Saturday has already noticed.
Namobuddha's guesthouse exists to support the monastery and the money stays there. Meals come at the monks' times, prayers are not a performance and photography inside the shrine is asked about rather than assumed. Visitors who sit quietly at the back of evening prayers are entirely welcome.
The hotel has filtered water you refill from and the guide carries a filter for the hills. Across six days that is fifteen fewer bottles in a valley with no real way of dealing with them.
Write to us or send a message on WhatsApp with your arrival date and how many of you there are. A week of notice is plenty. We confirm within a day.
Twenty per cent to hold the hotel and the monastery guesthouse, the balance on arrival in Kathmandu. There is very little committed in advance on a trip like this, which keeps it flexible.
More than fourteen days out, the deposit transfers to another date within a year. Inside fourteen days the rooms are paid and we retain the deposit. It is a short trip and there is not much to lose.
Freely. Swap a hill, skip a day, add the heritage day, go to Nagarkot instead of Namobuddha. We pick the order on the evening of day 1 based on the weather, and we will happily pick it again on day 3.
Tell us, and the week changes shape. We will put the two hardest hills back to back rather than spacing them, which is exactly what you want before Everest Base Camp and exactly what you do not want on a holiday.
Priced per person, arranged before you travel, and none of them included in the price above.
Patan, Bhaktapur and Swayambhunath with a cultural guide rather than a hiking one, slotted in as a rest day between the two big hills. The addition most people make.
An hour along the range with a guaranteed window seat, back before eight, so it fits before any of the hill days. Weather dependent and refunded in full if it does not go.
A ridge hotel at 2,175 m with a north facing room, two sunrises, and the walk down to Changu Narayan on the last morning. It is the gentlest possible finish.
A 900 m climb from Thankot to the ridge at 2,550 m, with a temple and a very good view at the top, and a cable car for the descent. Half the effort of Shivapuri and most of the reward.
Phulchowki and Shivapuri are two of the best birding forests in central Nepal. If that is why you are coming, we put a specialist with you and the walking gets slower and much more interesting.
A quieter base than Thamel, in a Newari courtyard house, and ten minutes closer to the two southern hills. Worth it if the noise of central Kathmandu is not what you came for.
4 versions of this journey. They use the same guides and the same lodges; what changes is the length, the comfort and how much of it you walk.
A look at the trail, the villages and the mountains.
Everything was handled for us from the moment we landed. Our guide read the group perfectly, slowed the pace when we needed it, and knew every village along the way. I never once worried about logistics.
We travelled as a couple and the small group made all the difference. Comfortable lodges, honest advice about the altitude, and a team who clearly loved the mountains. Booking on our own dates was easy.
You can tell this is run by people from here, not a call centre abroad. The itinerary had proper rest days built in, the food was better than I expected, and the whole thing ran to time.
12 of them, and they are the ones people actually send us. If yours is not here, ask and we will answer it and add it.
Two of them are proper hill days. Shivapuri climbs 1,300 m and Phulchowki 1,200 m, both in one push, and both take six or seven hours. Champadevi is shorter and Namobuddha is a gentle farm walk. If you walk hills at home for five or six hours you will enjoy all four.
Of course. Some people do three hills and spend the fourth day in Patan, and we build that in at booking or on the morning. The hotel is paid for either way and the guide will happily take you round a city instead of up a hill.
Because a trek means a domestic flight, permits, a porter, a week of packing and unpacking, and a fixed route. This gives you five days of real walking with a hot shower and your own bed at the end of four of them, ten minutes from a very good dinner. It suits people with a week, and people who want to walk without committing to a trail.
From Shivapuri and Phulchowki, on a clear morning, yes: Ganesh Himal, Langtang and Dorje Lakpa from the north rim, and on the sharpest winter days Everest from Phulchowki. From October to February this is usual. In the monsoon you will see cloud and an extremely good forest.
Some of them, badly. Shivapuri and Phulchowki have forest tracks that branch a great deal and Champadevi has several ways up. This is the main argument for the guide, along with the fact that the valley rim has had occasional robberies on quiet trails over the years and a local guide is the simplest answer to that.
Only the Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park entry at NPR 1,000, the Phulchowki forest fee and the small Namobuddha donation, all of which are inside your price. There is no TIMS card and no trekking permit, because none of this counts as trekking.
Simple, clean and quiet. A twin room with a bathroom, blankets, no heating and no bar. Meals are vegetarian and taken with the monks' timetable rather than yours. Prayers are at six in the morning and visitors are welcome to sit at the back. Most people find it the best night of the trip.
Yes. Nagarjun and Jamacho are a shorter half day above the ring road, Chandragiri can be walked up and ridden down on the cable car, and Nagarkot to Changu Narayan is a very pleasant ridge descent. Tell the guide the night before and it is arranged.
Phulchowki is one of the best birding hills in Nepal, with something like three hundred species recorded on it, and the Godavari end of the forest in March and April is remarkable. Bring binoculars. We can put a bird guide with you instead of the hiking guide if that is the point of the trip for you.
October and November for clear air, December and January for the sharpest mountain views and cold bright mornings, March for rhododendron on Phulchowki and Shivapuri. April is hazy. The monsoon is green, leech ridden on the forest hills and honestly not the time for this trip.
Both, with the right selection. We would swap Shivapuri and Phulchowki for Nagarjun, Chandragiri and the Nagarkot ridge, which are half the climb and most of the view. Tell us who is coming and we will build the week rather than sell you this one.
It works very well at the start of a longer trip, because four hill days at 2,700 m are genuinely useful training before a Himalayan trek. Several people use it as the week before Everest Base Camp. Tell us at booking and we will make it one itinerary.
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6 days
$497 per person