Four warm, low days on a ridge east of Pokhara, through Gurung and Brahmin villages and terraced fields, with the Annapurnas and Manaslu on the skyline from breakfast to dusk.
Four days on a ridge east of Pokhara, sleeping in three villages, with nothing higher than 1,730 m at any point. You start at the Bijayapur stream, climb once onto the ridgeline and then stay on it, walking north-east through Kalikasthan, Syaklung and Chisapani before dropping to Rupa and Begnas lakes at the end. The Annapurnas and Manaslu sit on the northern skyline for most of the daylight hours, and you are almost always walking between somebody's terraces.
People who want the Himalaya without the fortnight, the altitude or the crowd. It works for a first trek, for walkers in their seventies, for families with children of eight or nine, and for anybody who has a week rather than three. It also works as an honest trek in its own right for people who have done the big ones and want to see how the middle hills actually live.
The Prince of Wales made an official visit to Nepal in 1980, called on the Gurkha regiment he was colonel-in-chief of, and took three days walking these ridges with a party usually reported at around ninety people. Some operators date it to 1981 and the accounts genuinely differ. It is a good story and it is not the reason to come. The reason is the villages and the terraces, which were here long before he was.
Roads. Dirt roads now reach most of the villages on this ridge, and on two or three short stretches the trail and the road are the same thing. We route around them where a footpath still exists and we will not pretend they are not there. What the roads have not changed is the view, the terracing or the fact that you will meet more schoolchildren than trekkers.
Four walking days and four days of getting there and back. The altitude column is the one that needs no second look.
| Day | Route | Walking | Altitude |
|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Arrive Kathmandu | - | 1,400 m (4,590 ft) |
| Day 2 | Kathmandu to Pokhara, by air or road | - | 822 m (2,700 ft) |
| Day 3 | Drive to Bijayapur, walk to Kalikasthan | 4–5 hrs, 9 km | 1,370 m (4,490 ft) |
| Day 4 | Kalikasthan to Syaklung | 5–6 hrs, 13 km | 1,730 m (5,680 ft) |
| Day 5 | Syaklung to Chisapani | 5–6 hrs, 12 km | 1,550 m (5,090 ft) |
| Day 6 | Chisapani to Begnas Lake, drive to Pokhara | 4–5 hrs, 11 km | 650 m (2,130 ft) |
| Day 7 | Pokhara to Kathmandu | - | 1,400 m (4,590 ft) |
| Day 8 | Fly home | - | 1,400 m (4,590 ft) |
Every bed on this trek plotted against the ground it sits on. The line climbs 900 m across two days, gives it all back on the last morning, and never reaches the height at which most Annapurna itineraries begin walking.
Eight of them a year, and most people ignore the lot and pick their own dates, which costs the same from five people.
| Dates | Season | Places | Price | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 11 Oct 2026 to 18 Oct 2026 | Autumn 2026 | Just opened | $845 | Reserve |
| 25 Oct 2026 to 1 Nov 2026 | Autumn 2026 | Just opened | $845 | Reserve |
| 15 Nov 2026 to 22 Nov 2026 | Autumn 2026 | Just opened | $845 | Reserve |
| 6 Dec 2026 to 13 Dec 2026 | Winter 2026 | Just opened | $795 | Reserve |
| 10 Jan 2027 to 17 Jan 2027 | Winter 2027 | Just opened | $795 | Reserve |
| 14 Feb 2027 to 21 Feb 2027 | Winter 2027 | Just opened | $795 | Reserve |
| 14 Mar 2027 to 21 Mar 2027 | Spring 2027 | Just opened | $845 | Reserve |
| 4 Apr 2027 to 11 Apr 2027 | Spring 2027 | Just opened | $845 | Reserve |
This is a trek people usually book on their own dates
It is four walking days and it needs no acclimatisation, so it slots into whatever week you have. A party of five or more pays the published price on any date, and a single trekker pays $1,190 and goes whether anybody else books or not. We can start it on a Saturday, run it backwards from Begnas, add a night at Chisapani so you walk the last day slowly, or bolt it onto the front of a longer Annapurna trek as a gentle warm-up. Tell us the month and we will build it around your flights.
A guide and a porter cost the same whether they walk with one of you or eight, so the price per person falls as the party grows. Every one of these runs, including the first.
| Party size | Notes | Per person |
|---|---|---|
| 1 person | a guide to yourself, and any date you like | $1,190 |
| 2 to 4 | $920 | |
| 5 to 10 | the published price | $845 |
| 11 or more | a second guide comes along | $780 |
Day by day, with where you sleep and how far you walk.
We meet you at the airport and drive you to your hotel. If you land early there is time to walk into the old streets around Thamel and find your feet. In the evening we sit down together, go through the route, look over what you have packed and answer whatever you have been wondering about since you booked.
A twenty-five minute flight west, or a seven hour drive along the Trishuli river if you would rather watch the country go past. Pokhara sits at 822 m on the edge of Phewa Lake with the Annapurnas standing over it, close enough to feel unreasonable. The afternoon is yours, and we collect your permit while you rest.
A twenty minute drive out to the Bijayapur stream on the eastern edge of town, then the only sustained climb of the trek: up through rice terraces and buffalo sheds onto the ridge. Kalikasthan is a scatter of Brahmin houses around a small Kali temple, and from above the village the whole Annapurna wall comes out at dusk.
The day the trek settles into what it is: a long, gentle ridge with terraces falling away on both sides and Annapurna II, Lamjung Himal and Manaslu lined up to the north. You pass through Thulakot and Mati Thana, both Gurung, and stop for tea wherever it is offered. Syaklung at 1,730 m is the highest bed of the week.
Down off the ridge through oak and pine, then a gradual climb back onto the next one. Chisapani means cold water, which is the name of about forty villages in Nepal and here refers to the spring below the houses. The view north from the shoulder above the village is the best half hour of the whole walk.
The last morning runs downhill the whole way, nine hundred metres of it, through terraces to the water. Rupa Lake first, quiet and thick with birds, then over the low saddle between the two lakes and down to Begnas at 650 m. A boat across, lunch by the water, and a half hour drive back into Pokhara.
Fly back in twenty-five minutes or drive it in seven hours, whichever you booked. If you fly, ask for a window on the right going east and you get the whole range from Annapurna round to Ganesh Himal. The evening is free in Kathmandu, and we eat together if you would like to.
We take you to the airport three hours before your flight. If you are leaving late there is time for the carved courtyards of Patan or a last hour in the bookshops of Thamel, and we will keep your bags at the office until you need them.
You can genuinely pack light for this one
There is no altitude, no snow and no flight weight limit, and every village has mains power and a road. Most people who walk this trek carry their own daypack for four days and leave the rest at the hotel in Pokhara, which we store free. If you would rather have a porter, one costs $20 to $25 a day and is shared between two. We provide the duffel and, from November to February, a sleeping bag. Bring boots you have already worn.
Twenty-five minutes in the air or seven hours on the road, and unlike the Everest treks nothing here depends on a mountain airstrip.
The flight takes twenty-five minutes and costs $55 to $85 each way, and there are a dozen a day from Kathmandu. The tourist coach takes seven hours on a road that follows the Trishuli river and costs about $18. Neither depends on weather in the way a mountain airstrip does, and both run all year. Most people fly one way and drive the other, which is the sensible split.
Bijayapur sits on the eastern edge of Pokhara, past the army camp, and the road takes you to the bridge over the stream where the walking starts. There is no long transfer day at either end of this trek, which is a large part of why it fits into eight days.
This is the quiet advantage the Royal Trek has over anything in the Khumbu. There is no Lukla, no three-day weather hold and no need for a spare day built into the itinerary. If the Pokhara flight is delayed by fog on a winter morning, you drive instead and lose half a day, not three.
Book it for the evening of day 8 or later. Even on a trek this reliable, one landslide on the Prithvi highway in a wet September can add four hours to the drive back, and it is a cheap thing to leave room for.
Three nights in village houses and small lodges. Simple is the accurate word and we would rather use it than a nicer one.
| Where | Nights | Type | Room | Bathroom |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kathmandu | 2 | Three-star hotel | Twin or double | Private, hot water |
| Pokhara | 2 | Three-star hotel by the lake | Twin or double | Private, hot water |
| Kalikasthan | 1 | Village lodge, the largest on the route | Twin, plain | Shared, hot shower |
| Syaklung | 1 | Gurung homestay, a room in a family house | Twin, sometimes three beds | Shared, bucket of hot water |
| Chisapani | 1 | Homestay or small lodge, depending on the month | Twin, plain | Shared, hot shower at most houses |
| Meal | Time | Usually |
|---|---|---|
| Breakfast | 7:00–7:30 | Roti, eggs, porridge, curd and honey, milk tea or coffee |
| Lunch | 12:00–13:00 | Dal bhat, fried rice, chow mein, vegetable curry, whatever the garden had |
| Dinner | 18:30–19:30 | Dal bhat with three or four vegetable sides, pickle, and chicken if you asked in the morning |
| Tea | on arrival and at every excuse | Milk tea, ginger, lemon, or the local millet spirit if somebody is celebrating |
| Diet | On this route |
|---|---|
| Vegetarian | Easy everywhere, and the default in the Brahmin houses at Kalikasthan. Dal bhat is vegetarian and it is refilled until you stop. |
| Vegan | Manageable. Ghee and curd are the things to name when you book, because nobody thinks of them as ingredients here. |
| Gluten free | Rice, dal, potatoes, eggs and vegetables are all safe. Roti and noodles are not, and a village kitchen cannot rule out cross-contamination. |
| Halal | No certified halal kitchen on the ridge. Vegetarian is the practical answer and it is a good one here. |
| Meat | Chicken and buff at most stops, and unlike the high treks it is fresh and the fridge works. Tell your guide the night before so a bird can be bought. |
The gentlest multi-day trek in Nepal that still has a view.
Written for somebody who walks a bit and does not train. If you already run or cycle regularly, start at the eight-week block. Nothing here needs a gym.
Eight weeks out
Walk regularly
Three walks a week of forty-five minutes at a pace where you can still talk. That alone is enough preparation for this trek, and it is more than most people who enjoy it have done.
Six weeks out
Find a hill
Swap one walk for something with 250 m of ascent in it. The first afternoon climbs 570 m and it is the only part of the week that will make you breathe hard.
Four weeks out
Wear the boots
Every walk from here in the boots you are bringing, with the daypack you will carry. Blisters are the single most likely thing to spoil a four-day trek and they are entirely avoidable.
Three weeks out
Practise going down
Find a descent and do it repeatedly. The last morning drops 900 m to the lakes and it is quads, not lungs, that feel it afterwards.
Two weeks out
One longer day
Five hours on the hill with a light pack. If you finish that able to eat a proper dinner and sleep normally, you are ready and can stop thinking about it.
The highest night is 1,730 m. Altitude illness effectively does not happen below 2,500 m, so this page has nothing to warn you about.
The highest bed on this trek is 1,730 m and the highest ground you cross is barely above it. Altitude illness is effectively unknown below 2,500 m, so there is nothing here to acclimatise to, no rest day to build in and no oximeter reading to worry about in the evening. Pokhara, where you sleep either side of the walk, is lower than most European ski resorts. If you have come to this page from an Everest itinerary, this is the section you can skip.
Your guide carries a first aid kit
Blister kit, rehydration salts, antiseptic, painkillers and a splint, and the training to use them. On a trek this low that covers almost everything that actually happens.
There is a road to every village
This is the trek's least romantic feature and its best safety net. A jeep can reach Kalikasthan, Syaklung and Chisapani, so anybody who needs to leave the ridge is off it within an hour or two.
Pokhara is two to three hours away
Manipal Teaching Hospital in Pokhara is a full hospital with intensive care and English-speaking doctors. Nothing on this route is more than a short drive from it.
Helicopter, if it ever came to that
Available and quick from Pokhara, and in eight years of running this trek we have never needed one. Take standard trekking insurance anyway.
Fitness and altitude are unrelated
This is the thing people get wrong most often. Training makes the walking easier and does nothing for how your body handles thin air. Strong young trekkers get altitude sickness and unfit older ones frequently do not. Go up slowly, and say something the first time your head hurts.
Look at December, January and February. On almost every other trek in Nepal those are the months we tell you to avoid, and here they are among the best of the year.
| Month | Day, on the ridge | Night, on the ridge | Night at Syaklung, 1,730 m | What it is like | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| January | +15°C | +4°C | +2°C | Good | Cold nights, warm sun and the sharpest mountain views of the year. Valley fog can hide Pokhara until nine. |
| February | +17°C | +5°C | +3°C | Best | Excellent. Clear, dry, warm enough to walk in a shirt, and you will have the ridge to yourself. |
| March | +21°C | +9°C | +7°C | Best | The best of the spring. Rhododendron in the forest between Syaklung and Chisapani, and the terraces being ploughed. |
| April | +24°C | +12°C | +10°C | Good | Warm and increasingly hazy. Walk early, because midday on an open ridge is genuinely hot. |
| May | +25°C | +15°C | +13°C | Hard | Hot, humid and the mountains are usually behind haze. Pre-monsoon storms build most afternoons. |
| June | +26°C | +17°C | +15°C | Hard | The monsoon arrives. Green, thick and wet, and leeches on the forest sections. |
| July | +26°C | +18°C | +16°C | We do not run it | Nobody goes up this ridge with us in July. Pokhara takes over 900 mm of rain and the mountains simply are not there. |
| August | +26°C | +18°C | +16°C | We do not run it | As July, with landslide risk on the access roads and leeches on every damp stretch. |
| September | +25°C | +16°C | +14°C | Good | The rain clears through the month. Late September is washed clean, and the rice is gold on every terrace. |
| October | +22°C | +12°C | +10°C | Best | The most reliable month, harvest everywhere, and still quiet on this ridge while the Annapurna trails are full. |
| November | +19°C | +8°C | +6°C | Best | Clear, dry and comfortable. The northern skyline is out from dawn to dark most days. |
| December | +16°C | +5°C | +3°C | Best | One of the few Nepal treks that is a pleasure in December. Cold after sunset, faultless by day. |
Built from Pokhara station averages with roughly five degrees taken off for the height of the ridge. Any given week runs a few degrees either side, and the winter figures assume a clear night, which most of them are.
One government-licensed guide with wilderness first aid training, and from eleven trekkers a second joins. Our guides on this route are from Kaski and Lamjung, which is the point: the houses you stop at belong to people they know, and half the conversations at dinner would not happen otherwise.
One porter per two trekkers if you want one, carrying a maximum of 20 kg between you. Plenty of people carry their own pack for four days because there is no altitude and the days are short. Nobody thinks less of you either way, and a porter is a day's wage for somebody from these villages.
Wages, insurance, food and beds for every guide and porter are inside the price on this page, not collected on the trail. They are insured for accident and evacuation on the same terms we ask of you. An easy trek is not an excuse to pay people badly for it.
Customary and not compulsory, and never a stand-in for the wage. For a trek this length, $60 to $100 per trekker for the whole team is usual, handed over together on the last evening. Your guide will not raise it.
A night in a family house at Syaklung puts money directly into a household that has no other way to earn from trekking. There is no lodge chain here, no Kathmandu owner and no commission. This is the rare trek where the phrase community tourism describes the accounting rather than the brochure.
Boiled or filtered water is included at every stop and we do not buy plastic on this trek. The ridge has no rubbish collection: whatever is bought here is burned here, in somebody's yard, and a week of bottles is a genuinely ugly thing to leave behind.
Trekkers complain about the dirt roads on this ridge. The roads exist because a woman in Chisapani can now reach a hospital in two hours instead of being carried for eight. We route onto footpaths where they survive, and we are not going to be sentimental about the alternative.
Ask before you photograph anyone, and mean it. Take your shoes off at the door, eat with your right hand or ask for a spoon, and do not step over food or over somebody sitting down. Shoulders and knees covered in the villages. Your guide will tell you the rest as it comes up.
Write to us or send a WhatsApp message with a rough month. You will get a reply from somebody who has walked this ridge rather than a form, and nothing is owed until you pay a deposit.
Thirty per cent holds your dates and the balance is due when you reach Kathmandu, in cash or by card. We ask for a passport copy, two photographs for the permit, your insurance certificate and any dietary notes at the same time.
Pay us by bank transfer, or by card through a secure link. The bank takes roughly 4 per cent on a card payment and we put that figure in front of you at the time, not in a line at the bottom afterwards. Settle the balance in Kathmandu in dollars, pounds, euros or rupees.
More than 30 days out, the deposit moves to any other date or trek we run with no time limit. Inside 30 days it is retained, because the rooms, the guide and the transport are booked by then. If we cancel for anything other than weather, you get all of it back.
Both cost the same from five people. A private departure runs on your dates at your pace and can be arranged for one person at $1,190. Because this trek is short and has no flights to sync, private is unusually easy to arrange here.
Four days is enough, and two if you are already in Pokhara. There is no permit queue, no domestic flight that sells out and no lodge that needs reserving. This is the trek we build for people whose original plans fell through.
You will have days spare that you would not have on a longer trek. Pokhara is a good place to have them.
Priced per person, arranged before you travel, and none of them included in the price above.
Thirty minutes off the hill above Pokhara with the Annapurnas in front of you and Phewa Lake underneath. The best money anybody spends in this town.
Up in the dark by jeep for first light on Dhaulagiri, Annapurna and Machhapuchhre, then back for breakfast. Pairs well with the day you arrive in Pokhara.
Five hours south to the lowland jungle for rhino, crocodile and possibly a tiger. Easy to add because you are already halfway there.
Cook, kitchen, dining and toilet tents and a camp crew for the three nights on the ridge. This is how the trek was originally walked and it puts you on the viewpoints rather than in the villages.
Stay by the lake at the end instead of driving straight back to Pokhara. A boat, a swim, and the quietest evening of the trip.
Bhaktapur, Patan and Boudhanath with a guide who can read the carvings. Good use of day 7 if you fly back from Pokhara in the morning.
A room of your own for all four city nights. Up on the ridge a private room depends entirely on which house is open, and we will not promise one.
4 versions of this journey. They use the same guides and the same lodges; what changes is the length, the comfort and how much of it you walk.
A look at the trail, the villages and the mountains.
Everything was handled for us from the moment we landed. Our guide read the group perfectly, slowed the pace when we needed it, and knew every village along the way. I never once worried about logistics.
We travelled as a couple and the small group made all the difference. Comfortable lodges, honest advice about the altitude, and a team who clearly loved the mountains. Booking on our own dates was easy.
You can tell this is run by people from here, not a call centre abroad. The itinerary had proper rest days built in, the food was better than I expected, and the whole thing ran to time.
23 of them, and they are the ones people actually send us. If yours is not here, ask and we will answer it and add it.
None whatsoever. This is the trek we send people on who have never slept anywhere without a lift. Four days, four to six hours of walking each, on paths that farmers use daily. If you can manage a long day walk at home you can manage all four of these.
Reasonably active is enough. The first afternoon climbs 570 m and the last morning drops 900 m, and between them the ridge is gentle. Eight weeks of walking three times a week covers it comfortably, and plenty of people arrive having done less.
It is easy and it is worth doing, and those are separate questions. What you get is four days living at the pace of the middle hills, which is the part of Nepal most trekkers pass through at speed on the way to something higher. The mountains are in view the entire time.
Yes, and this is the one we recommend for families. Eight or nine upwards manages it, the days are short enough to stop when somebody has had enough, and a jeep can reach every village if a day goes badly. Children are a considerable social advantage in a homestay.
No. We have run this for walkers in their eighties. With no altitude, no exposure and a road to every night's bed, the things that usually rule people out of a Nepal trek do not apply here.
No. The highest point you sleep at is 1,730 m and altitude illness is effectively unknown below 2,500 m. There is no acclimatisation day on this itinerary because there is nothing to acclimatise to.
Yes, and December to February is one of the best times to do it. Days on the ridge sit around 15°C to 17°C in full sun, nights drop to about 3°C to 5°C, there is no snow at this height and the mountain views are the clearest of the year. Very few Nepal treks can say that.
We do not run it in July or August. Pokhara takes over 900 mm of rain in July, the mountains are invisible for weeks, the forest sections have leeches and the access roads slip. June and September are borderline and we will tell you honestly which half of the month you are looking at.
In April and May the ridge reaches about 24°C to 25°C by midday with very little shade, and it feels hotter than that on an open stretch. That is why we start at half past eight and finish by mid afternoon, and why the sun hat matters more than the fleece.
Three nights on the ridge: a small village lodge at Kalikasthan and family homestays at Syaklung and Chisapani, with the occasional swap depending on the month and who is open. Beds, mattresses, quilts, shared bathrooms and a bucket of hot water. Simple is the honest word for it.
Yes, and that is how it was originally walked. We add a cook, kitchen, dining and toilet tents and a camp crew for $195, which lets you sleep on the viewpoints rather than in the villages. It is better for the views and worse for the conversation, and most people choose the houses.
At Kalikasthan and usually at Chisapani there is a plumbed hot shower for nothing or a dollar. At Syaklung it is a bucket of hot water in a stone stall, which after a warm day is entirely adequate. Nobody goes four days without washing on this trek.
Ncell and NTC cover the whole ridge and 4G works at most of it, which is more than you get at 4,000 m in the Khumbu. Wifi exists at Kalikasthan and comes and goes elsewhere. Buy the SIM in Kathmandu or Pokhara, since you cannot register one in a village.
Partly, and we would rather say so here than have you find out on day 4. Dirt roads reach all three villages and two or three short stretches of the route share the roadbed. We use footpaths where they still exist. Traffic is a handful of jeeps and motorbikes a day, not a stream.
Dal bhat twice a day, cooked in the house you are sleeping in, with three or four vegetable sides from the garden and pickle that will surprise you. Breakfast is roti, eggs and curd. It is fresher than trail food at altitude and there is no menu, which most people end up preferring.
Very few. On a good week in November you might pass two or three other parties in four days, and in January you may pass none. The road building that trekkers complain about is the reason this ridge stayed quiet, so it cuts both ways.
An Annapurna Conservation Area permit at NPR 3,000, about $22, issued by the National Trust for Nature Conservation in Kathmandu or at the Damside counter in Pokhara. We also buy you a TIMS card at NPR 2,000, about $15. Both are inside your trip price and we arrange them with your passport copy and two photographs.
Operators disagree and enforcement on this ridge is nothing like the Annapurna checkposts at Birethanti. We buy it because it costs $15 and removes any argument at a desk. If you hear from another company that it is unnecessary, they may well be right and it is not worth the conversation.
$100 to $150 changed into rupees covers drinks, snacks, the boat at Begnas, a shower or two and your tips, with room to spare. There are ATMs all over Pokhara and none on the ridge, so draw what you need before you leave town.
An ordinary travel policy covering trekking, medical treatment and repatriation. You do not need the high-altitude clause or the helicopter cover that the Everest treks require, because you never go above 1,730 m. Check that your policy does not exclude Nepal by default.
No. If you are already in Pokhara we will run it as a six day trip starting and finishing there, which is cheaper. Plenty of people add it to the end of another trek or tack it onto a work trip, and it is easy to shorten to three walking days if you are tight for time.
Ten at most on a set departure, and it runs from one. From eleven a second guide joins. Most people book their own dates privately, which costs the same from five people and is easier to arrange on this trek than on any other we run.
Easily, because it is short and it ends in Pokhara. The usual pairings are Chitwan for three days, a week on the Annapurna Base Camp trail afterwards, or the Panchase ridge on the other side of the lake. Tell us what you have in mind and we will put the dates together.
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8 days
$845 per person