The whole country in ten days without a trek: the medieval cities of the valley, a rhino in the Chitwan grass, and the Annapurnas from a ridge above Pokhara.
Ten days that cross the whole of Nepal from the subtropical plains to the edge of the Himalaya, without a single night in a tent. The valley cities, Chitwan National Park and the Pokhara ridges, in the order that works, with two mornings set aside for the mountains so that one cloudy dawn does not cost you the range.
Because most people arrive thinking Nepal is mountains and leave surprised that a fifth of it is hot flat grassland with rhino in it. Chitwan is four hundred square miles of sal forest and elephant grass on the Indian border, and two days there changes what visitors think the country is.
Sarangkot at sunrise is a viewpoint with a car park. Walking west along the ridge from it for three hours, through villages where people are getting on with the morning, is the difference between seeing the Annapurnas and being somewhere underneath them. It is the best three hours of the trip and it costs almost nothing to include.
First visits to Nepal, families, couples, and travellers with ten days who want the country rather than one corner of it. It works from one traveller upward, and it is the trip we suggest most often to people who write and say they are not sure what they want.
Medieval cities at 1,400 m, subtropical jungle at 150 m, and the Annapurnas from a ridge at 1,600 m. The distances are short and the changes are not.
| Day | Route | Walking | Altitude |
|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Arrive Kathmandu | - | 1,400 m (4,590 ft) |
| Day 2 | Swayambhunath, Durbar Square, Boudhanath | 3 to 4 | 1,400 m (4,590 ft) |
| Day 3 | Patan and Pashupatinath | 4 | 1,400 m (4,590 ft) |
| Day 4 | Kathmandu to Chitwan | 5 to 6, 165 km | 150 m (490 ft) |
| Day 5 | Chitwan: canoe, walk and jeep | 3 to 4 | 150 m (490 ft) |
| Day 6 | Chitwan to Pokhara | 5, 150 km | 820 m (2,690 ft) |
| Day 7 | Sarangkot sunrise and the Naudanda ridge | 3, 9 km | 1,600 m (5,250 ft) |
| Day 8 | Pokhara, the lake and the pagoda | 2 | 820 m (2,690 ft) |
| Day 9 | Fly to Kathmandu, drive to Nagarkot | 25 min | 2,175 m (7,140 ft) |
| Day 10 | Nagarkot sunrise, Bhaktapur, and out | 2 | 1,400 m (4,590 ft) |
Day by day, with where you sleep and how far you walk.
We meet you at the airport and take you to your hotel. Nothing is asked of you today. In the evening we go through the ten days over dinner and answer the questions that always come up: how hot is Chitwan, what will you see, and whether you need anything you have not brought.
Up the stairway to Swayambhunath early, while the pilgrims are still going round. Kathmandu Durbar Square in the late morning. Boudhanath at the end of the afternoon, when several thousand people walk the kora at lamp lighting and the whole thing turns golden, which is the moment most people remember from the valley.
A morning in Patan Durbar Square, the finest of the three and the least crowded, and then the back lanes where families still cast bronze by lost wax in their own courtyards. Pashupatinath in the afternoon, where cremations happen in the open on the ghats and the guide will have told you what to expect before you arrive.
South and west out of the valley, five to six hours by road along the Trishuli, losing a thousand metres and gaining fifteen degrees. Chitwan is flat, hot and green and smells of nothing like Kathmandu. We arrive in time for a walk to the Tharu village and the sunset on the Rapti riverbank.
A dugout canoe down the Rapti at first light, with gharial on the sandbanks and a great deal of birdlife, then a guided walk in the park with two naturalists, one in front and one behind, which is how it is done here. A jeep drive in the afternoon into the grassland where the rhino are, and a Tharu stick dance in the evening.
An early walk or a second canoe if the group wants one, then five hours north west to Pokhara along the Seti. The road climbs steadily and the air cools. We reach the lake in the afternoon, and the first thing everybody does is look north to see whether the mountains are out.
Up to the Sarangkot ridge at 1,600 m before six, which is worth the alarm because the light comes onto Machhapuchhre and Annapurna South first and the lake is still under mist below. After breakfast we walk west along the ridge to Naudanda, three hours on a village path with the range on your right the whole way, and drive back down.
A boat across Phewa Tal to the Tal Barahi temple and up the steps to the World Peace Pagoda, or the Tibetan settlement at Tashiling, or Devi's Fall and the Gupteshwor cave, or nothing at all on a hotel terrace. Paragliding off Sarangkot is the popular extra and we can arrange it in the morning.
Twenty five minutes by air with the range out of the left windows, or six hours by road if the weather is against it. Rather than going back into the city we drive straight up to the Nagarkot ridge at 2,175 m, which is an hour beyond Bhaktapur, and spend the evening watching the light leave the Himalaya.
Up before six for the last mountain view, which on a clear winter morning runs from Ganesh Himal to Everest. Down to Bhaktapur for the morning, which is the best preserved of the three cities and the right place to end. To the airport in the afternoon, or back to Kathmandu if you are staying on.
You are packing for three climates
A Kathmandu January morning is two degrees. A Chitwan afternoon in the same week is twenty six. Sarangkot before sunrise is colder than either and you will be standing still in it. Layers rather than one warm coat, and repellent for the lowlands, which is the item most people leave at home and then buy badly in Sauraha.
The flights and the long drives this itinerary is built around, and what happens when one of them does not go.
Tribhuvan International is the only realistic way in, via Delhi, Doha, Dubai, Istanbul, Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur or Singapore. There is no direct flight from Europe or North America. Land the day before if you can, though day 1 asks nothing of you.
Fill the form at the kiosk, pay $30 cash for 15 days at the bank counter, then join immigration. Clean dollar notes. Indian nationals need no visa. Allow anything from forty minutes to two hours depending on what else has landed.
Twenty five minutes, with the whole Annapurna range out of the left hand windows, which is worth asking for at check in. It is a small aircraft and 15 kg of checked luggage is the allowance. If cloud grounds it we drive, which takes most of the day and costs us the Nagarkot evening, so we would rather fly.
Day 10 ends at the airport in the afternoon, having spent the morning in Bhaktapur. If your flight is late in the evening, take a day room rather than sitting in the terminal. If it is in the morning, we bring you back to a Kathmandu hotel on the night of day 9 instead of going up to Nagarkot, and we will say so when we see your flights.
A city hotel, a jungle lodge with a pool, a lakeside room in Pokhara and a north facing ridge hotel at Nagarkot.
| Where | Nights | Type | Room | Bathroom |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kathmandu | 3 | Three star hotel, in or near Thamel | Twin or double | Private, hot water |
| Chitwan, Sauraha | 2 | Jungle lodge with a garden and a pool | Twin or double cottage | Private, hot water |
| Pokhara | 3 | Hotel by Phewa Tal | Twin or double, lake facing where we can | Private, hot water |
| Nagarkot | 1 | Ridge hotel, north facing | Twin or double with a mountain view | Private, hot water |
| Meal | Time | Usually |
|---|---|---|
| Breakfast | 7:00–9:00 | Hotel buffet in the cities, and eggs, toast and fruit at the lodge. Earlier on the two sunrise mornings |
| Lunch | 12:30–14:00 | Included at the Chitwan lodge; elsewhere wherever the day has taken you, which the guide will steer |
| Dinner | 19:00 | Included at Chitwan and on the first and ninth nights. Otherwise yours, and both cities eat extremely well |
| Tea | 16:00 | At the lodge after the jeep drive, and on a Pokhara terrace at the hour when the range comes out |
| Diet | On this route |
|---|---|
| Vegetarian | Easy everywhere. A great deal of Nepali cooking is vegetarian by default and the Chitwan lodge caters for it without being asked. |
| Vegan | Straightforward in Kathmandu and Pokhara and manageable at the lodge with notice. Tell us at booking so the lodge knows before you arrive. |
| Gluten free | Manageable. Rice, dal, curry and grilled food are safe. Say it clearly, because wheat flour and soy sauce turn up in unexpected places. |
| Nut allergy | Tell us at booking. Nepali kitchens use peanut and cashew freely and the guide will say it at each restaurant for you. |
| Halal | Available in Kathmandu and Pokhara, and the Chitwan lodge will arrange it with notice. |
Early starts for the two mountain mornings and the Chitwan canoe, and long unhurried afternoons for everything else.
Easy. Two to four hours on foot on the busiest days, one three hour ridge walk with no real climb, and a vehicle for everything else. The only demands are two early mornings and two long road days.
Written for somebody who walks a bit and does not train. If you already run or cycle regularly, start at the eight-week block. Nothing here needs a gym.
Before you book
Know what this is
A touring holiday with one ridge walk in it, not a trek. If you want to walk for days, add Ghorepani at the Pokhara end and we will build it as one trip rather than two.
A month before
Your feet and the cobbles
The valley squares are uneven stone and there are several hundred temple steps at Swayambhunath. Wear the shoes you are bringing, a good deal, before you come.
A week before
The heat swing
You will go from a Kathmandu morning at eight degrees to a Chitwan afternoon at twenty eight in the same week, and back up to a cold ridge at the end. Pack for both and expect the lowland heat to be the bigger surprise.
Two tables would be more honest than one, because Chitwan is fifteen degrees warmer than Nagarkot on the same afternoon. These are the valley figures, with the ridge alongside.
| Month | Day in Kathmandu | Night in Kathmandu | Day at Nagarkot | What it is like | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| January | +18°C | +2°C | +9°C | Good | The clearest mountain views of the year and the coldest nights. Chitwan is foggy until nine and then perfect. |
| February | +20°C | +4°C | +11°C | Best | Our favourite month for this trip. Clear, warm enough, and the Chitwan birdlife is at its best. |
| March | +25°C | +8°C | +16°C | Best | Warm, the grass in Chitwan cut short so the rhino are easy to see, and rhododendron on the hills. |
| April | +28°C | +12°C | +19°C | Good | Hot in the lowlands and hazy in the hills, so the Sarangkot view becomes a lottery. Good wildlife, poorer mountains. |
| May | +30°C | +16°C | +21°C | Hard | Very hot in Chitwan, with pre monsoon storms. Not the month we would choose for you. |
| June | +30°C | +19°C | +22°C | Hard | The monsoon arrives and the mountains go. Green, cheap and humid. |
| July | +29°C | +20°C | +22°C | Hard | The wettest month. Chitwan floods in places and part of the park closes. |
| August | +29°C | +20°C | +22°C | Hard | Wet and empty. The valley cities under rain are lovely and the rest of the itinerary is not. |
| September | +28°C | +18°C | +21°C | Good | The monsoon clears through the month and the last week is often the cleanest air of the year. |
| October | +26°C | +13°C | +18°C | Best | The best month overall and the busiest. Washed air, warm days, and Dashain and Tihar in the cities. |
| November | +23°C | +7°C | +14°C | Best | Clear, cool and still. The mountains are out most mornings from both ridges. |
| December | +19°C | +3°C | +10°C | Good | Very clear and cold, with fog on the valley floor and in Chitwan until mid morning. Book early over Christmas. |
Averages for the Kathmandu valley at 1,400 m, with the Nagarkot ridge alongside. Chitwan runs about eight degrees warmer than the valley figures all year.
A licensed cultural guide for the valley days and the Pokhara ridge, a driver with a private vehicle throughout, and in Chitwan the lodge's own naturalists, who are the people who know where the rhino were yesterday. From eight travellers we add a second guide.
Two of them on the jungle walk, one leading and one behind, both licensed by the park and both armed with a stick and a good deal of experience. They give a proper briefing before you set off and it is worth listening to rather than nodding through.
Our guides do not take you to shops that pay them a percentage, because we do not work with the ones that do. If you want to buy something, say so and you will be taken to a workshop where you can watch it being made and the maker keeps the money.
We stopped selling them. The park still permits them and most lodges still offer them, and the argument about chaining, training and back injury is not a close one. You will see elephants, from a jeep and at the breeding centre, and we will explain our reasoning to anybody who wants to hear it.
Half of Chitwan's revenue is returned to the buffer zone communities that live around the park and lose crops to its animals. That is the whole basis of the rhino recovery, which took the population from a hundred in the 1960s to more than six hundred now. Pay it gladly.
Patan still has families casting bronze and carving wood in their own courtyards. The tourist streets mostly sell imports. The guide knows the difference and will take you to the courtyards.
Every hotel and lodge on this trip has filtered water you can refill from. Across ten days that is thirty fewer bottles, in a country with no real way of dealing with them.
Write to us or send a message on WhatsApp with your arrival date and how many of you there are. We reply within a day with a confirmed itinerary and a price, not a brochure.
Twenty per cent to hold the hotels and the lodge, the balance two weeks before you arrive or on arrival in Kathmandu. Christmas and new year at Chitwan wants confirming several months ahead.
More than thirty days out, the deposit transfers to another date within a year. Inside thirty days the lodge and the flight are paid and we retain the deposit. Inside seven days we retain half the total.
This is a private trip, so the itinerary is a proposal. If Chitwan has you and you want a third night, or the Pokhara weather turns and you would rather be in the valley, the guide rearranges it over breakfast.
Say so at booking. Permits, guides and porters all want a few days of notice, and one itinerary built together comes out cheaper than a tour and a trek bought separately.
Priced per person, arranged before you travel, and none of them included in the price above.
Tandem, twenty to thirty minutes, launching from the ridge you watched the sunrise from and landing by the lake. Added to the morning of day 8. It needs stable air, so autumn and winter are best, and it is refunded if it does not fly.
An hour along the range from Kathmandu with a guaranteed window seat, back before eight. It slots onto day 2 or day 10. Weather dependent and refunded in full if it is cancelled.
The one addition we suggest most. Two days in Chitwan is enough to see a rhino; three is enough to stop rushing, and the second jeep drive at dawn is usually the best wildlife of the trip.
Joined to the Pokhara end rather than sold separately. Five days on a teahouse trail, sunrise at 3,210 m over ten peaks, and back to the lake. One itinerary, one price, and the permits handled together.
In a family kitchen rather than a hotel demonstration room. You shop in the market first and eat what you cook with the family. Added to day 3.
Dwarika's or the Hyatt in Kathmandu, a five star lodge at Chitwan, a lakeside resort in Pokhara and the best of the Nagarkot ridge. Same itinerary, different beds.
4 versions of this journey. They use the same guides and the same lodges; what changes is the length, the comfort and how much of it you walk.
A look at the trail, the villages and the mountains.
Everything was handled for us from the moment we landed. Our guide read the group perfectly, slowed the pace when we needed it, and knew every village along the way. I never once worried about logistics.
We travelled as a couple and the small group made all the difference. Comfortable lodges, honest advice about the altitude, and a team who clearly loved the mountains. Booking on our own dates was easy.
You can tell this is run by people from here, not a call centre abroad. The itinerary had proper rest days built in, the food was better than I expected, and the whole thing ran to time.
12 of them, and they are the ones people actually send us. If yours is not here, ask and we will answer it and add it.
One three hour ridge walk on day 7, on a village path with no climb worth the name, and three or four hours a day on foot in the cities. That is the whole of it. If you want a trek, add the Ghorepani circuit on the end and we will build it as one itinerary.
Two long days: five to six hours to Chitwan on day 4 and five hours to Pokhara on day 6. The flight on day 9 saves the third one. Nepali roads are slow rather than long, and both drives are broken with stops. If the road days worry you, we can fly Kathmandu to Pokhara as well and reverse the order.
Almost certainly. Chitwan holds something over six hundred greater one horned rhino and the grassland near Sauraha is where they graze. Across a canoe trip, a walk and a jeep drive most groups see several. Nobody promises a tiger, and if a guide promises you one, do not believe them.
No. We stopped. The park still permits them and plenty of lodges sell them, and we would rather put you in a jeep or on your feet. You will see elephants, at the breeding centre and occasionally working, and we will explain the argument honestly if you want to have it.
It is done with two armed naturalists, one leading and one at the back, on a briefing that covers what to do if you meet a rhino, which is get behind a tree. It is taken seriously and it is the best three hours of Chitwan. If you would rather not, the jeep covers the same ground.
From October to April, most mornings, and in December and January nearly every one. In the monsoon it is a lottery you will usually lose. We build in two mountain mornings, at Sarangkot and at Nagarkot, precisely so that one cloudy dawn does not cost you the range.
Yes, on the morning of day 8, and it is the thing people most often add. Twenty to thirty minutes tandem, landing by the lake. About $90 and it needs a day's notice. It flies in clear stable air, so autumn and winter mornings are best.
Comfortable three star in Kathmandu and Pokhara, a jungle lodge with a garden and a pool at Chitwan, and a north facing ridge hotel at Nagarkot. All with private bathrooms and hot water. If you want the four and five star versions, say so and we will price it.
Very well, and it is the trip we suggest most often for families. Canoes, jeeps, rhino and a boat on a lake do the work. Children under ten go free at the valley monuments and pay half at the park. Tell us their ages and the pace changes.
Private, on your own dates, unless you ask to join a set departure. Two travellers is the usual booking. The price per person falls quite sharply with numbers, because the vehicle and the guide cost the same either way.
October and November for washed air and warmth, February and March for the mountain views and the birds in Chitwan. December and January are the clearest and the coldest, and Chitwan mornings are foggy until nine. April is hot in the lowlands and hazy in the hills.
Yes, and Kathmandu is the natural hinge for both. Bhutan needs the daily fee and a flight booked well ahead; Tibet needs a group visa and about three weeks of lead time. Tell us at booking rather than while you are here.
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10 days
$1,187 per person